Bucharest, Romania- terrifyingly fascinating

04.03.2011- 04.05.2011

I have never been to a city so terrifyingly fascinating. Bucharest, Romania, in Southeastern Europe still remains in turmoil and despair after the fall of communism in 1989 and European Union accession in 2007. Corruption is still rampant, especially in the healthcare system, which keeps the city from progressing. The city, though, is called the “Paris of the East.” Like Paris, you will find beautiful art nouveau style buildings, an Arc de Triumph, and the Champs d’Elysee.

But, next to those art nouveau buildings and along Bucharest’s Champs d’Elysee will be run down grey ones, blocks of crumbling buildings, air conditioning units lining the sides of the buildings, and power-lines sprouting in over 15 different directions.

It was sad to hear Romania’s terrifying history—Romania was under one of the cruelest communist regimes. The people had no power and no food. They were freezing, starving, and violated. The amazing thing is the older generations do not talk about the past. Much of the terrors of the regime are left buried. Only in a few places around the city, including Revolutionary Square, are reminders of the past and commemorate the 1,600 people who died overthrowing communism.

One of the most memorable events on our trip was when we went to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to talk about coming to terms with the past in post-communist Romania, more specifically about the archives of the Securitate secret police. We visited the reading room where people where they can request files of themselves or of their family members (with consent) during the communist regime to see whether they were watched or followed.

The scale of the project was grand and incomprehensible. Most of the victims were everyday workers. They were followed because they told jokes or if they had a friend abroad. Many of the cases ended with no leads, just being expensive and wasteful.

The people seemed a little gloomy and quiet. They were warm, but a little timid and nervous. One of the students in my group was even asked, “Why are you in Bucharest, Romania?” It was a little unnerving to see police at every metro station when stamping your ticket and even inside the cars. Also, you would see police or security in certain stores, including casinos and McDonalds.

It was hard to enjoy my time there (also because I got sick). It was difficult to see so much pain and suffering; visiting Bucharest was definitely an eye opening experience. I had to go out of my way to spend my Romanian leu or ron. It was really intriguing to me that they mostly used smaller bills (20’s, 10’s, 5’s, and singles) and only 50-cent coins (no pennies). Some of the stores didn’t even have change after a transaction with a 5-leu bill. While I was there, I paid an extra leu or one less because the stores didn’t have change. This just shows how inefficient the country is, on a small scale.

We went to a meeting on anti-corruption and spoke to an anti-corruption coordinator. The interesting thing is that she participated in corruption as well, in the healthcare system. What she disclosed to us was unreal--- doctors make a salary around €400 and rent is €300. To provide for their families or to get rich, doctors take bribes. Horrifyingly, some doctors will refuse to provide service if the “white envelope” does not have enough cash in it. She said, “ you are not in a position to barter when it is you mother’s life. You do what you can and hope the doctor will do all that he can do.” Frankly, that is sickening. I understand why so many educated young professionals are leaving Romania for other countries and why people smoke so much here compared to most other European countries (you can buy packs of cigarettes at the restaurant tables). I honestly didn’t think the city was going to be this bad, almost 5 years after European Union accession. Compared to other EU countries, Romania is far behind.

But, the people have the hope. We found red and white bracelets that symbolize hope, prosperity, and good health tied to trees. Romanians will wear the bracelets until they see a stork, swallow, or the beginning of spring.

I am interested to what Romania will look like in 25 years and also interested to see what Sofia, Bulgaria offers. Hopefully it won’t be in as much turmoil.